Kauai Cheap Food

Ancient Kauai royalty (alii) dined on fresh caught ahi and taro. Today most dining establishments want you to think that regal dining in Kauai means forking over 40 dollars for toenail sized serving of fish more reminiscent of a Kandinsky painting than a meal. However, if you know where to look, you can enjoy the freshest seafood in the state without having to take out a second mortgage.

Kapaa and Lihue:
Often when people imagine breakfast on the island, their reveries feature melting ice sculptures surrounded by crab, heaps of pineapple and plates of banana pancakes, accompanied by a $30 a person tab. Instead, follow the locals. In Kapaa, you won’t find a better banana pancake, smothered in homemade piping hot coconut syrup than at Ono Family Restaurant (808-822-1710; 4-1292 Kuhio Highway).

For lunch, it’s hard to avoid a trip (or three) to Hamura’s Saimin Stand (808-245-3271; 2956 Kress St, Lihue) for huge bowls of noodle soup, lilikoi pie and grilled meat for well under ten bucks. However, if you look a little farther, you’ll find many local favorites. In a little shack on the ocean side of Highway 56 in Anahola, locals line up at Duane’s Ono Charburgers (808-822-9181) for tetherball-sized burgers, addictive fries and marionberry milkshakes.

Stay nearby at http://www.oyster.com/hawaii/hotels/aston-islander-on-the-beach/

South Shore:
For South Shore breakfast, you are in luck. Here you’ll find the best traditional breakfast on the island at Joe’s on the Green (808-742-9696; 2545 Kiahuna Place). On Sundays locals crowd the patio along the golf course to eat the most authentic loco moco around.

For lunch and pupus, don’t miss the hole-in-the-wall Koloa Fish Market (808-742-6199; 5482 Koloa Road). They serve up the best poke on the island, fantastic seaweed and macaroni salads, and massive plate lunches to go.

Stay nearby at http://www.oyster.com/hawaii/hotels/sheraton-kauai-resort/

North Shore:
A trip to Kauai is not complete without a visit to Kilauea Fish Market (808-828-6244; 4270 Kilauea Lighthouse Road, Kilauea). Locals line up out the door for lunch or an early dinner. Serving up the freshest sustainable fish on the island, you can’t go wrong with an ahi or tofu wrap enjoyed on picnic tables overlooking a meadow.

Locals and surfers testify that pizza and burritos are the best ways to fill a hungry belly after a long beach day. North Shore locals favor the fresh (and huge) slices at Kilauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza (808-828-2020, Kong Lung Center, Kilauea).

Stay nearby at http://www.oyster.com/hawaii/hotels/hanalei-colony-resort/

Dining like alii shouldn’t break the bank and with a little know how, you’ll find that food at inexpensive restaurants often outshines the pricy offerings of traditional sit down places, leaving you plenty of cash to take that helicopter tour, and return to Kauai next year.

Tidal Wave of Thoughts--Tsunami Musings 2010

Throughout centuries, Kauai and her sister isles have had to endure plenty of Mother Nature's whippings. Hurricanes, earthquakes, disease, invasive plants, and of course a less environmental beating (but no more painful) colonialism. And time and time again, she has bounced back, stronger, more humble, and more enriched because of it.

As I sit in my living room today, three thousand miles from the Garden Isle, watching CNN coverage of the tsunami destined to wash Hawaii's shores, I imagine the people of Kauai as I know them: sitting near Sleeping Giant, banding together, sharing papaya, talking story, and marveling in the power of nature.

If any people know how to embrace natural happenings (I won't say disasters, it's too early for that), it is island people. After Iniki, the locals gathered together to help rebuild. After the tourist slump, the people hunkered down and tried innovative ways to lure visitors back, and the list goes on.

I write this not only to send love and strength to all people affected by the Chilean earthquake this morning, but to also remind us all that the power of nature pales by comparison to the power of people in great numbers working together. If there is destruction, we will rebuild. Together.

United Slashes Winter Flights to Kauai

Get it while it's hot. I just heard that United has slashed winter fares to Kauai (and all islands) to hover at just around $500 round trip from San Francisco. The past couple of years found winter fares to be closer to $600-$700.

For more information click here.

Polihale State Park--Why Locals Love It

Imagine a bumpy potholed road, 5 miles long that breaks rental cars that merely think about the trip. Throw in 15 miles of white sand that stretches to the western edge of the Na Pali Coast, free camping, intense surf, and even a mellow sheltered reef for keikis. Oh, and did I mention that it is almost always sunny and is Kauai's best place to watch the sunset?

Now you know why locals are volunteering to help rebuild a washed out bridge that leads to this magnificent beach. Wouldn't you?

Polihale may open up again sooner than you know it, thanks to the Kauai community.

If I only had one day on Kauai I would...

People ask me this all the time. Often they are cruise ship visitors with only 8-24 hours to "see" the island. And though I can easily prove that a day is not enough to see the island, it is enough to be become smitten with it.

Here's how.

Kauai is different than every other island in that it is lush and looks like that a tropical island is supposed to look like--if you know where to go. Save sunny beaches for Maui ahd Oahu. In Kauai you get to experience the garden isle in all its splendor.

Start by renting a car through your cruise ship or at the Lihue airport (you can take a cab from the harbor). Every major car rental agency is located at the airport.

After you have your car, drive north to Princeville (if you are starving, pitstop at Mango Mama's for a fruit smoothie). Head to the Hanalei Bay Resort's Bali Hai restaurant to have breakfast. Though not the best service, the views remind you why South Pacific was filmed on the island.

Keep traveling north, through the town of Hanalei (you'll be back) to the Limahuli Garden for a tour of native plants. Then drive north until the road ends to stop at the picturesque Kee Beach.

Venture back through Hanalei, stopping at the surf shops and art galleries.

When your belly rumbles, head straight to the Kilauea Fish Company for fresh fish wraps and veggie offerings. Even better take your food to the Kilauea Lighthouse for a picnic with views of the albatross sailing over the sea.

If you want a little beach break, drive back to Wailua to enjoy the kid-friendly Lydgate Park.

Or head ot old town Kapaa for some souvenir shopping and a cocktail.

For dinner, I love Hukilau Lanai for fresh (and super sweet) seafood and decadent cocktails.

By that point, you should be tuckered out and ready to return to Kauai for a month.

Pick up a copy of GREAT DESTINATIONS KAUAI (Countryman Press) for more information.